What ‘Streetwear’ Means To The Designers Of Kenzo And Hood by Air

Photo: WENN/HBA

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of Opening Ceremony and Kenzo (above left), and Shayne Oliver of Hood by Air, are arguably some of the most important “streetwear” influencers of the moment. The three designers act as standard-bearers of the streetwear subculture, and season after season they carry street fashion forward into the future of their own making. Recognizing their contributions to the streetwear community and fashion as a whole, Dazed Digital and Selfridges teamed up to bring the designers together to discuss what streetwear means to them and their work and how they see themselves shaping the style.

Though they’re clumped into the category together Leona and Oliver had differing thoughts on the meaning of the term. Leon seemed almost to resent the terminology and said, ”‘Streetwear’ is a label the industry put on things they can’t really put their arms around. We make clothing that people wear on the streets, that real people would wear. I think maybe that’s where the original term came from. To be clumped into this larger, industrial version of the word streetwear undermines the authenticity of what it is… ”

Oliver took a different viewpoint, he seems to embrace the term and use it for inspiration. “My intention is the original meaning of streetwear: concepts that come from a different world, but made easy to understand and interact with; almost tricking people into trying new concepts. Instead of it being extremely high and awkward and obtrusive, it’s a way to bring new ideas into the norm or the real,” he said.

Ultimately the two agree on the practicality of the style; they believe in the importance of making real clothes that real people want to wear in real life, eschewing the couture fantasy lands of Chanel and the like. It’s streetwear’s realness aspect that helps create a community of like-minded people. This in turn helps perpetuate the surrounding subculture, which is very important for inspiration and authenticity.

Who knew fashion could be so theorhetical and abstract? To read more about what Humerto Leon, Carol Lim, and Shayne Oliver have to say about genderless fashion and logos, head over to Dazed Digital for the rest of the interview.

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